![]() ![]() But this statement: " It started at 12.5 Amp and gradually increased to over 17.5 amps, then the breaker popped." leads me to believe that you have done this. If you have one, I'd use a "clamp on" amp meter to verify what the current load is accurately, if you have not already done so. Reading through the responses, most of what I was about to say has been covered. John T NOT an AC expert or tech by any means, so see what the experts have to say or add to this. Last time I talked to one and he discussed the cost to perform a line tap to check Freon and/or or add any versus the cost of a new unit, I decided to try and check it wasn't worth it since it may fail again and then all that money would be wasted. If you clean both coils and the interior air filter and there's no bad capacitor (which I doubt is the problem) and all electrical connections (breaker and panel and at unit) are good yet she still draws 17.5 amps, I think Id have an RV AC Tech take a look as there may be a compressor or Freon problem. Is the fan motor clean and free, that's easy to see and get to, its not running overly hot is it? While capacitors can go bad, I suspect you unit just has a START Capacitor instead of any START and RUN, so such is NOT my "first" suspect (still anything is possible). Id fell better if a 12 to 14 amp unit were on a 20 amp branch circuit then a 15 amp. Next, even if the unit normally draws say 12.5 amps, TO ME THATS TOO MUCH CURRENT FOR A 15 AMP BRANCH CIRCUIT BREAKER (I wouldn't use over 12 amps) and assuming its a Thermal Magnetic Breaker, a long continuous 12 to 13 amp draw could eventually trip the thermal, and of course your reported 17.5 amps will trip it quickly. They make a powerful spray coil cleaner I've seen RV AC techs use, but the solution is fairly strong so make sure no spray ends up other then on the coils I use my air compressor plus a soft brush so I don't bend any of the delicate fins. Thus periodic checking of ac is recommended specially when going on long tours.First off I agree with neighbor Ray to clean the coils, and of course that means BOTH the easy to get to Condensor PLUS Evaporator (which some people don't) as well as any interior foam type strip air filters. The shinning sun can cause the plastic to fade in its strength. Over the years it may not be as protective as it should be. The cover even though could be strong will take effect due to all the dust and speed. Since the air conditioner resides outside it can take toll due to all the dirt and debris. An air conditioner does cost handful of money and thus preventing it for any such issues is a good idea always. Doing schedule maintenance of the ac unit thus is a good idea so as to keep it running properly. And thus there is great chance of dust causing the clogging inside different system parts that should not be covered with debris. Using bleach will also help in preventing algae growth.Īir conditioner removes moisture as well as dust from the RV. Once you are done clearing the debris from the drain pipe and drain pane, use bleach to clear it further.You can also use a small size soft brush to get the pipe cleaned more thoroughly.Then check for debris at the end of the drain pipe and try cleaning it as far as possible. Check if there are any debris on the drain pan.The drain pan may already have some water, and thus make sure you remove/dry it out before starting.First thing that you need to keep in mind no matter what problem you are solving is to turn of the air conditioner before starting. ![]()
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